Wednesday, April 22, 2015

And One that Esquire Got Right

It's a pretty bad wind that doesn't blow someone some good - I think that's the way the saying goes.  And while there is a lot left "wanting" in the Esquire Big Black Book in terms of actual research and imagination - there is one that I think they got very right -

Courtesy of Bell & Ross
This is from the Bell & Ross Vintage collection.  The Bell & Ross 123 GMT 24H.

When I worked at Tourneau I was always torn between the Rolex Explorer and Explorer II.  I loved the big numbers and clean look of the Explorer, but I also appreciated the GMT functionality of the Explorer II.  As IWC aficionado Adam Craniotes said about a particular IWC design he liked (and I am quoting from memory something that was said over a few libations) "It's as if they reached into my head and pulled out my dream watch." - apologies in advance for any misquotes Adam ; )

Well Bell & Ross, it's as if you reached into my head and pulled out my dream watch!

Now the argument could be made that Bell & Ross advertises in the Big Black Book - but in fairness so did at least one other brand that (thankfully) did not make the cut.  My old sparing partner from the Motor City, Shinola.  Shinola spends money on marketing and advertising like a drunken sailor on shore leave spends it on (use your imagination).  And this is an important distinction.  I have a LOT of respect for Monocle magazine, but they pander to Shinola with a near sycophantic urgency that is about as subtle as Shinola's earlier advertising campaigns.

But back to the 123 GMT 24H -

Clean, easy to read dial.  Large, visible GMT hand.  Clean and subtle 24 hour bezel.

Hours, minutes, seconds, date (between 4 o'clock and 5 o'clock), GMT.  I also really like the strap which is described by Bell & Ross as "weave rubber".

Here's the rundown, straight from the source -

Mechanical automatic movement. 

hours, minutes, seconds, date. 
Second time zone 24h (GMT).

Satin-polished steel case. 
42 mm diameter. 
Graduated bezel. 

Black dial. Appliqué metal index and numerals. 
Skeletonised metallic hours and minutes hands filled with Superluminova®.
Antireflective sapphire glass.

100 m.

Weave rubber strap.
Satin-polished steel pin buckle.

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