Tuesday, March 25, 2014

Straight Outta' La Chaux-de-Fonds

This is something new from Montres duManège

Courtesy of Montres duManège
I had thought about holding off writing on this until I had seen one up close, but in an effort to keep the news flowing, I will give you the run down straight from the source -

The dial, with a black lacquered coating and the overlaid flange, has a unique style. It's the duManège style, which is also visible in the particular shape of the indices, the double finishing sanded- and satin-brushed, and the white rhodium-plated hands with tips blued using a varnish. The power reserve indicator is located at 11 o'clock, the calendar with hand-dates is at 7.30. It's an unusual arrangement and has a functional reason: the caliber was mounted into the case backward to allow the winding crown on the left of the watch, a trend that is popular with some of the major brands. It has a practical purpose, namely, to protect shirtsleeves made of delicate material.

Courtesy of Montres duManège
As for the automatic mechanical caliber, it was also produced by one of the top movement builders of the region, the company Technotime in Brenets. It has a power reserve of 120 hours, which is indicated by a hand, has two barrels and a module for the date, also indicated by a hand. The oscillating weight and the finishings have been given some subtle and elegant customization touches, which show that a young, creative and inspired designer is at the origin of the DM-Exploration. 


Courtesy of Montres duManège
Subscription and customization
The dyed-in-the-wool aficionados call this a "watchmaker's watch," because it is liable to kindle admiration among the industry’s big players. But other people, perhaps less professional, will also feel a spontaneous desire to actually own one. Also because of the three versions being produced, the numbered one in steel is being sold by subscription. It's a way of acquiring directly a real distillate of horological excellence at "wholesale" price, i.e., at 50% of its retail price tag of CHF 9500.- 


Case:
diameter 44.5 mm, lug width 22 mm Satin-brushed surfaces, polished beveling
Nine steel components, high-tech black ceramic inserts Water-resistant to 50 meters

Dial:
Black lacquer, overlaid flange Inscription "La Chaux-de-Fonds" White rhodium-plated hands, varnished blue tips (second and date hands)
Anti-reflexive sapphire crystal
Movement:
Automatic (mechanical) Technotime with duManége customizing
Two barrel springs

Retrograde date shown by a hand Power reserve indicator
120 hours power reserve (five days) 

Strap:
Natural rubber (caoutchouc) with steel folding clasp 

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