Friday, January 19, 2018

The Novelties

From Lundis Bleus -

Yesterday saw a quick teaser, but today we go a wee bit more in-depth.  It would seem that there are, in fact, three new novelties in the hopper!

Courtesy of Lundis Bleus
One welcome addition is the "Onyx", also known as the 
Ref.1100-O.

Case
Polished stainless steel 316L, Ø40mm with basin-shaped pro le.
Water-resistant to 3 bar. Total thickness of 11mm.
Box type sapphire crystal with double sided anti-reflective coating.
Case back in stainless steel 316L with integrated lugs, stamped logo and sapphire crystal.

Hands
Flat cut brass with rhodium plating.
Dial
Natural black onyx stone. Fully polished. Made by Daniel Haas in Pieterlen.
Strap
Smooth black french calf leather and lining, with stainless steel tongue buckle. The strap is handmade in Le Locle by Sophie Dornier from Les Artisans Selliers.
Movement
Japanese automatic movement Miyota 9015. Features hours, minutes and central seconds. Adjusted to 6 positions at the workshop.
Warranty & service
5 year warranty.
First service free of charge as long as the watch is sent back to our workshop within this period. Free shipping worldwide.

Price & availability
CHF 1’850.-.
Available soon online on the Lundis Bleus e-shop 


Courtesy of Lundis Bleus
 
Next is the the Ref.1110-GM “Fujisan”.  
 
Courtesy of Lundis Bleus
 
This one is a bit special.  The dial is a masterpiece of detail, with an image of Japan's tallest peak, Mt. Fuji.  This one is a "bit" more expensive compared to the rest of the Lundis Bleus collection, but then one must take into account the dial.  It is gold, and
completely hand-engraved by Jean-Bernard Michel.

Courtesy of Lundis Bleus

Case
Polished stainless steel 316L, Ø40mm with basin-shaped profile.
Water-resistant to 3 bar. Total thickness of 11mm.
Box type sapphire crystal with double sided anti-reflective coating.
Case back in stainless steel 316L with integrated lugs, stamped logo and sapphire crystal.

Hands
Flat cut brass with rose gold plating.
Dial
Solid white gold 750/1000 (125 Pd) with engraved Japanese landscape. Weight : 13 grams. The dial is entirely hand-engraved by Jean-Bernard Michel (www.jeanbernardmichel.ch).
Strap & Pouch
Golden brown genuine alligator leather strap. Large scales on top, small scales for the lining.
Stainless steel tongue buckle.
The smooth french calf leather pouch is handmade in Le Locle by Sophie Dornier from Les Artisans Selliers, as well as the alligator strap.

Movement
Swiss automatic movement ETA 2892 Top, rhodium plating and perlage finish. Japanese clouds hand-engraved on the oscillating weight.
Features hours, minutes and central seconds.
Adjusted to 6 positions at the workshop.

Warranty & service
5 year warranty.
First service free of charge as long as the watch is sent back to our workshop within this period. Free shipping worldwide.

Price & availability
CHF 9’000.-.
Available soon and on request only on the Lundis Bleus website 


Courtesy of Lundis Bleus

And my very favorite - the Ref.1100-EU “Burgundy"!
 
Courtesy of Lundis Bleus
 
Needless to say, there will be some serious negotiations with my piggy bank ; )
 
Courtesy of Lundis Bleus
 Here are the pertinents for the "Burgundy" -

Case
Polished stainless steel 316L, Ø40mm with basin-shaped pro le.
Water-resistant to 3 bar. Total thickness of 11mm.
Box type sapphire crystal with double sided anti-re ective coating.
Case back in stainless steel 316L with integrated lugs, stamped logo and sapphire crystal.

Hands
Flat cut brass with rhodium plating.
Dial
In sterling silver with handmade texture and burgundy vitreous “grand feu” enamel. Pad printed logo and index. Silver color varnish.  The dial is entirely done in-house at the Lundis Bleus workshop.
Strap
Grey suede leather strap and lining, with stainless steel tongue buckle.
Movement
Japanese automatic movement Miyota 9015. Features hours, minutes and central seconds. Adjusted to 6 positions at the workshop.
Warranty & service
5 year warranty.
First service free of charge as long as the watch is sent back to our workshop within this period. Free shipping worldwide.

Price & availability
CHF 1’850.-.
Available soon online on the Lundis Bleus e-shop.


And one very interesting point - a FIVE YEAR WARRANTY! 

Thursday, January 18, 2018

Something New From Lundis Bleus

This is just a teaser -

Courtesy of Lundis Bleus
Further details to come, with additional images and details straight from the source at Lundis Bleus - stay tuned!

Wednesday, January 17, 2018

Doing Good - Nordgreen

Having rolled the dice for charitable giving myself with 3thirty3, I am always happy to see another idea idealist organization take a shot at charitable capitalism. 

Courtesy of Nordgreen
The folks from Nordgreen are offering three different designs at a good price and the best part?  What Nordgreen has defined as their Giving back program -



                  Giving back program

We are going to play our part in making sustainable change across the globe. Every watch will contribute to a meaningful cause, and the choice is handed over to the owner. All you need is the serial number from the case back, and the unique identification code from the Certificate of Authenticity to make your choice and follow the results.


Now just what the amount or percentage of the donation is/will be I do not know, but I applaud Nordgreen for making this part of their model.

Should you be so inclined, you can find their Kickstarter program here -

https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1743565867/nordgreen-luxury-scandinavian-design-watches 

Tuesday, January 16, 2018

The Link Chronograph

Way back in December of 1990, there was a young man completing his degree at the University of Oregon.  He was given a choice between a Tag Heuer Link, and another more "standard" Tag Heuer model.  He opted for the standard model.  Yes, that young man was me.

At that time, the Link was a brand new thing, sort of sexy, but in all honesty?  It was "not ready for prime time".  It just didn't seem to come together for me.  It seemed more like a loosely constructed bracelet that was forcefully welded onto a watch head.  Now unfortunately, the Tag Heuer that I did choose had a "bumpy" ride, having repeat battery malfunctions and was "retired" a mere 3 years later in a Suburban Tokyo pawn shop where I traded it and 5,000 yen for a not-so-gently used Rado Green Horse.

Needless to say, I have often thought that had I chosen the Link, things might have turned out differently.  After all, wouldn't you like to still have your graduation present with you as you go through life?

Well, time has moved on as it inevitably must, and Tag Heuer have (at least in my opinion) finally come up with a Link model that is not only of the now, but will most definitely be aesthetically relevant into the future -

Courtesy of Tag Heuer

This is the recently released Tag Heuer Link Chronograph.  The case is stainless steel and measures 41 mm in diameter.  It is a three register chronograph providing hours, minutes, (constant) second and date as well as the aforementioned chronograph.  But the star of the show is the integrated steel bracelet.  And this is a HUGE step forward for Tag. Whereas the Link that I opted not to take way back then had a bracelet that did not really make it for me, this one is more ergonomic, smoother, and much better looking than its predecessor.  

Courtesy of Tag Heuer
Well, I've already gone through grad school, so it is probably too late for me to garner another "graduation watch", but this new Link makes it almost worth considering going back to school.

Here are the pertinents -

References 
CBC2110.BA0603 (black dial)
CBC2112.BA0603 (blue dial)

Movement 

TAG Heuer Calibre 17
Automatic chronograph with date

Case 

Diameter 41 mm – in steel
Fixed bezel in satin-finished steel
Sapphire crystal with anti-reflection coating
Steel crown at 3 o'clock
Chronograph push-pieces at 2 o'clock and 4 o'clock
Screw-down sapphire case back



Dial 

Black or blue sunray
Black or blue flange with 60-second scale
3 black or blue snailed counters:
- Chronograph small second counter at 3 o'clock
- Chronograph hour counter at 6 o'clock
- Chronograph minute counter at 9 o'clock
Faceted and polished indices and hands, rhodium-plated with white SuperLuminova™
Date window at 4:30
Rhodium-plated "TAG Heuer" logo at 12 o'clock
"LINK AUTOMATIC CALIBRE 17" inscription

Water-resistance 

100 metres

Bracelet 

Steel with S-shaped links

 

Monday, January 15, 2018

The Chronographe Monopoussoir Rattrapante

From F.P. Journe -

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

Available in Red Gold 

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

Titanium -

Courtesy of F.P. Journe

Courtesy of F.P. Journe
And apparently Platinum (of which photos were not included in the press release materials).

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source:


Movement -
Exclusive F.P.Journe Calibre 1518
- in 18 K rose Gold for the Platinum PT 950 or 18 K red Gold models
- in Aluminium alloy for the Titanium grade 5 model
Mechanical with manual winding
38 turns of crown

Dimensions of the Movement
-
Overall diameter: 33.60 mm Casing-up diameter: 33.20 mm Overall height: 6.80 mm
Height of hands: 2.20 mm Diameter of stem thread: S1.20 mm

Balance -
In-line lever escapement, 15-tooth escape wheel Chronometric with four adjustable inertia weights Anachron balance spring
Mobile stud holders
Free-sprung balance
Nivatronic laser-welded to collet
Pinned GE stud
Frequency: 21,600 v/h (3Hz)
Inertia: 10.10 mg*cm2
Angle of lift: 52°
Amplitude: 12 h flat: > 300° / 12 h vertical: > 260°

Main Characteristics -
Crown rubber overmolded with 3 positions Position 1: winding
Position 2: correction of the date
Position 3: time setting
Pusher chronograph to start, stop and back to zero at 2h Pusher split-second at 4h

Autonomy -
Over 80 hours without the chronograph

Indications -
Central hours and minutes
Register 60 seconds at 9h
Register 30 minutes jumping chronograph at 3h
Very large date at 6h

Finishing -
Circular stripes on the bridges, circular graining on the baseplate,
polished screw heads with chamfered slots, pegs with polished rounded ends, straight-grained steel work

Case -
Diameter 44 mm
Total height 12.10 mm
Platinum PT 950 / 18 K red Gold / Titanium grade 5, 
with rubber inserts

Dial -
- Platinum model
Silver guilloche blue-mauve colour, rhodied Gold appliqué numerals, two Silver chronograph counter and rhodied hands.
- 18K red Gold model
Silver guilloche covered with Ruthenium, mat red Gold appliqué numerals, two Silver chronograph counters and 5N golden hands
- Titanium model
Aluminium anthracite colour, appliqué numerals with Superluminova, two transparent sapphire engraved chronograph counters, hands with Superluminova

Bracelet -
Platinum PT 950, 18 K red Gold or Titanium grade 5, with rubber inserts

Number of Parts -
Movement without dial: 285 Cased up with strap: 562 Jewel: 29