Saturday, April 21, 2018

Wrapping up Seven Days with the Sartory Billard SBO2

Time, tide and well, reviews wait for no blogger, so it is time to wrap this one up.


For the past week I have been wearing, and truly enjoying the Sartory Billard SB02 - Silver Dial version.  The review piece came with Sartory Billard's “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel installed.  I realize as I write this that many of you may not be exactly familiar with Sartory Billard, and in fairness I was not either until I met one of the owners at BaselWorld back in March -


Definitely one of the cooler marketing pieces I saw ; )

Sartory Billard is the creation of Ludovic Sartory & Armand Billard.  Based in France, the constituent components of the SB02 are brought together and assembled in the Franche-Comté, a region that I visited back in November 2015 and home to many historical French watch making legends.  

The SB02 is Sartory Billard's second creation.  Now on the surface the watch is interesting owing to its design which is not the typical round field / diver style that we seem to be getting swamped with lately.  

Courtesy of Sartory Billard
The case is not quite tonneau, and not quite round.  You might also be able to notice from the above image that the inner stainless steel bezel is somewhat reminiscent of an ellipse.  Not quite round.  You will also notice that the stainless inner bezel pitches upwards somewhat, providing a really cool look and feel with real depth.

The case is made of stainless steel and measures 39 mm in diameter, and 12 mm thick.  And unlike so many brands (both micro and macro) the guys at Sartory Billard opted for a solid case back, which I truly appreciate. 



The fit and feel of the watch quite good.  It is definitely of the Goldilocks school of watch sizes - not too big, not too small, but just right.

 
Now here's the clever part - actually, just one of the clever parts!  You will notice if you look at the watch dial, you will note that the inner portion is actually translucent.  And you can see the full reveal of the date at 3 o'clock.  I have to be honest, I really dig the effect.  My only suggestion would be to have an outline around the date window to make it stand out just a little bit more.  But this is a minor point, and more down to my aging eyes than any true design issue.

Apologies for the shaky camera hand, but as you can see, the lume is good ; )

Under the hood, the movement is the Miyota 8215 self-winding (automatic) movement.   For those of you so inclined, here is a link to the pertinents, courtesy of Miyota  - 

Miyota 8215

The time keeping was first rate, no major deviations (fast or slow) to mention.  And I have to say something - THANK YOU Sartory Billard for picking a movement that can be serviced pretty much ANYWHERE!  More importantly, it's worth noting how many brands - even the big dogs - are starting to use Miyota instead of ETA or Sellita.  Hours, minutes, seconds and the aforementioned date.  All functioned perfectly.

The little things that you don't find on most micro-brands are here -

 
A signed crown.  The crown itself was very tactile and precise.  Setting the time was smooth and easy.


A signed buckle.  Smooth and appropriately sturdy for the watch and strap.


And a signed strap.  But there is more to this.  Because a big part of the Sartory Billard design is to offer the watch owner the opportunity to have ONE watch that can have several different looks without the use of tools and a professional watch customizer.


Sartory Billard use quick change straps that do not require a special spring bar tool or a pocket knife.  I started the review wearing this combination -

 
The strap is the grey version (grey sued top, leather underneath).  The strap width is 18 mm at the connection point but you will notice that the strap widens out to fit flush underneath the lugs.  It is a great looking combination, and I got plenty of questions about it.

 
You will also notice the four screw heads at the corners of the outer bezel.  This is far more than an aesthetic touch.  Because every SB02 ships with a tool to remove the screws -


allowing the customer the opportunity to purchase additional outer bezels for the princely sum of...



25 € each!  



 And suffice it to say, if yours truly can easily get this thing off -


And get the other bezel on...


 with minimal fuss and no cursing?  Then ANYONE can!


 From a sunny weekend look...


To the perfect watch to wear to the office.  One important thing to bear in mind when removing and changing bezels - the bezel does NOT require excessive force or torque to secure.  When the screw stops turning with normal force?  You've gone far enough ; )

And I think, if I am honest, Sartory Billard has come up with something that several other brands have tried, but (in truth) failed to deliver on.  A modular watch that can easily be changed and modified by the customer with one tool.  How many watch brands give this much consideration to a customer?  Every watch guy and gal wants to have options.  We speak all too often about our collections.  So often, that I think it is clear that many of us have lost touch with the idea of that one special watch.  The one that we treasure and look forward to wearing every day.  And how many brands are thinking about that customer that perhaps either has limited funds, or is truly conscientious about not spending their kid's college funds in the pursuit of a new watch?  This is an amazing idea, thoughtfully designed, well manufactured and very well-priced at 542 Euros.  

Want an extra one of the "standard" bezels so you can, in effect, double your watch?  You have five to choose from -

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard


and it will set you back 25 Euros.  Want one of the really nice engraved limited edition ones?

Courtesy of Sartory Billard

Courtesy of Sartory Billard
These are hand engraved, and limited.  And in fairness they are more expensive at 125 Euros each.

Three different colors of leather straps are available and again, very affordably priced at 25 Euros.  

All too often I am confounded by a certain well-known watch media outlet that drones on and on about the "value proposition" when speaking about watches that typically cost more than $1,500.  No offense to these folks, but I find that concept a tough one to swallow.  Mechanical watches, by their very nature, should certainly cost something.  But when I think about a watch with real value in terms of its pricing, I have a hard time equating the word value with something that represents a full pre-tax pay check for many people.  A good watch that you enjoy wearing should not be such a financial hit that you might be choosing between taking your family on a vacation or buying yourself the watch.  And that is why I am so enthusiastic about the Sartory Billard SB02.

Is this for everyone?  Probably not.  The case us unusual, and some people are not necessarily ready to break away from herd mentality and try something new without a big group's name on it.  But for the right person (and having worn it this past week, I can say that I am one of them), the Sartory Billard SB02 offers a great watch with potentially limitless possibilities.  

Here are the pertinents regarding the watch as reviewed:

Sartory Billard SB02 silver dial & “Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel

SARTORY BILLARD SB 02
ref. SB02.D.ST.04
Case: 

Stainless steel 316 L mirror polished and brushed on the sides.
“Côte d’Azur” blue acetate bezel.  39 mm in diameter, 12 mm thick.
Case back: 

Stainless steel, screw down, engraved
Water resistant: 

100m
Crystal: 

Sapphire, anti-reflective treatment with blue shade
Movement:

Automatic Movement Miyota 8215
Hands:

Hour and minute are rhodium with facets and applied Luminova. Rhodium second hand.
Dial: 

Sunray brushed and indexes applied with Luminova.
Crown: 

Stainless steel with logo

Strap:
Suede and genuine leather 


2 years warranty







Friday, April 20, 2018

The 103 Sa B E

From Sinn -



This was one of the more special pieces I got to try on this past March at BaselWorld.  Interesting to relate, feedback from a fellow member of the Fifth Estate -

"Unlike Playboy, people really do read Tempus Fugit for the articles, not for the pictures."

The 103 Sa B E is, in many ways, what you would expect from Sinn.  A solid, legible pilot's chronograph.  Perfect in size, shape and every other detail. But with a twist.  A beautiful blue dial and bezel add that extra little something that makes this latest Sinn so special. 

And a beautiful watch deserves a beautiful picture -

Courtesy of Sinn
 Here are the pertinents -
  • Limited edition to 500 units
  • Case made of stainless steel, polished
  • Blue dial with sunburst decoration
  • Ivory-coloured coating on the indices, hands, numerals and illuminated triangle
  • Anodised pilot’s bezel in blue
  • Sapphire crystal glass
  • Transparent back made of sapphire crystal glass
  • Pressure-resistant to 20 bar
  • Low pressure resistant

Thursday, April 19, 2018

The Hemel Justice

Hemel has recently brought out several new field watch models, and I'll be sharing them with you one at a time.  

This one is the Hemel Justice, Part of the Reference HM8 Series -

Courtesy of Hemel

Measuring 40 mm in diameter, with ETA's 803.112 quartz movement under the hood.  Here are the rest of the pertinents -

Case:
40 mm in diameter
Bead blasted stainless steel (316L)
Screw down case back and crown
Domed sapphire crystal
Water resistant to 100 meters

Dial:
Black
Superluminova C3

Movement:
ETA 803.112 Quartz
Hours, minutes, seconds (hacking), date (at 3 o'clock).

Strap:
Nylon, with grommets (not simply punched holes), signed stainless steel buckle.
 

Tuesday, April 17, 2018

The Essence

From Mondaine -


Courtesy of Mondaine
One of the truly neat releases this BaselWorld was the Essence from MondaineThis seemed to be a year for interesting surprises, and Mondaine had a few up their sleeves.  One that truly caught my attention was the Essence.  

On the surface, you might be forgiven for seeing yet another SBB themed dial.  But look a little closer.  This is not your standard pvd treated case.  In fact, it is not your standard case at all.  The case is constructed of a polyamide that BASF SE has provided to Mondaine.  This material is not simply just a plastic.  It is composed to a fair degree of renewable materials:


1. Watch Case Materials:

41%
Rizinus (castor plant)
30%
Glass
2%
Black Color pigments
27 %
Fossil based plastics

Per Mondaine, the most notable points of this case construction are:

    • High percentage of renewable resources (in comparison to other watch brands: over 70% less fossil based plastic in the case as 40% of the case content is made out of the Rizinus plant, 30% are glass reinforcement materials.)
    • High strength and rigidity
    • Very good impact strength
    • Outstanding resistance to chemicals
    • Unique surface appearance 

Courtesy of Mondaine
The strap is rubber (38% natural rubber).

Even the packaging is thoughtful -


Courtesy of Mondaine
The pouch that the watch is packaged in is made from recycled PET bottles.  And the pouch can later be "upcycled" for a different use ; )

The Essence is available with either a white or black dial, in either a 32 or 41 mm case diameter.  As I understand it, the suggested retail is $175.

Well done Mondaine!  Hopefully this is the start of even more good things.

Monday, April 16, 2018

Hublot Loves Football?

I'll let you be the judge ; )

Football Legends Pelé & Marcello Lippi
                                meet for a Match of Friendship in Dubai

That's right sports fans, that bastion of footballing and needy grass roots football development programs (insert eye roll and deep sigh here), DUBAI, was host to the latest Hublot Dog and Pony show.

Courtesy of Hublot
Life is a long time, and if you live long enough you will see it all, and so it was that we were treated to the footballing equivalent of the "Fat Elvis Las Vegas Era" for Pele and an assortment of former professionals who were freighted to Dubai to entertain a group of profoundly wealthy people.

Courtesy of Hublot
"This was the dream and Hublot has made it a reality!This match is everybody’s dream.  Seeing friends of the brand, legends on the pitch playing football, bringing together legendary sportsmen who have never played together for this exceptional encounter, creating two teams for a Match of Friendship, all this is more than we could have hoped for!  What better proof of how football can bring people together!”
                                                   Ricardo Guadalupe, CEO of Hublot


Well, football and commerce at any rate ; ) 

Let's be honest with each other, a 30 minute game of pick-ups with a rather disparate group of former internationals is not a ground breaking event.  It is a pr package put together to amuse the customers in a region that, in fairness, probably represents the best potential for Hublot to sell watches.

And in fairness, if I were a retired (or as good as retired, no longer playing in Europe's top leagues or even the MLS, and plying my trade in China or India) footballer, I would probably welcome the opportunity to be whisked first class to Dubai, treated like a hero, possibly get a new shiny watch, jog around for 15 minutes or so, and mug for the camera.  Who wouldn't?
 
Courtesy of Hublot

So a humble proposal that I have put forward to Hublot several times already (spoiler alert, crickets in response) and will continue to do so every time they push one of these events out to the press - 

Take 1/1000th of what this event cost to put on in.  Donate it to a true grass roots organization working to make football possible in parts of the world where Hublot would not necessarily be a market leader.  I understand that Hublot is a business and not a registered charity and I have no expectation that they should behave as such.  Having said that, when you proudly proclaim your love of football, it would be great if that was a love of football for everyone, not just the wealthy, and it would even be tax deductible ; )