Monday, January 25, 2021

Moonphase Monday - the ochs und junior moon phase

In oj blue -
Courtesy of ochs und junior
A moon phase with incredibly accuracy, the ochs und junior moon phase eschews the two extremes of this complication: either incredibly complex, or mindlessly dumb with a snap on module.  This one utilizes something completely different -  original thinking.

An ETA 2824-2 undergoes a colossal overhaul... just kidding ; ). A grand total of 5 additional parts make up the complication which operate in harmony with the ETA 2824-2 -
Courtesy of Ochs Und Junior
Per ochs und junior, the secret sauce contains a -
5-part epicyclic gear system designed by Ludwig Oechslin. The calculation is precise for 3,478.27 years before it is off by one day. 
Suffice it to say, keep it wound and you should be good to go.

The case can be had in either titanium or silver, and in (I believe) 3 sizes - 36, 39 and 42 mm in diameter.

Here are the pertinents on the moon phase oj blue, straight from the source -

42mm case | Grade 5 titanium | “oj blue” dial, date disk, and moon disk | White Super-LumiNova markers and sun at 12 o’clock | White Super-LumiNova hour and minute hands | Second hand in dial color for instant visibility of the time | White Super-LumiNova full moon | Dark side of the moon in gray | Orange Super-LumiNova date dot | Choice of strap

Sunday, January 24, 2021

Down With the King

Now I would not claim to be the hippest cat out there. Tik Tok and its allure is still elusive to me. I depend on Instagram and like, everyone else born before the 80s, Facebook for a sense of what might might be cooking in the watch world's collective subconscious. And I've noticed a rather curious trend. Grand Seiko is still a very much the darling of the media arm of Watch Town, and fair enough. But what I've seen bubbling up lately is... well you can't really call it a cult as that would require membership, organization (and occasionally a saffron robe and bargain Nikes). No, this is very much a watch sub culture that exists in an organic state, feeding off passion, not hyperbole.

Now having said that, there is one non-Grand Seiko that is a bit more upmarket. At an MSRP of $3,300 it is decidedly a bit more aspirational than the Seiko 5 Sports or the Presage. And proof positive that the right design and concept will capture hearts and minds regardless of what Seiko clique you identify with.

Courtesy of Seiko

This is the King Seiko SJE083. And as mentioned, it has caught the eye of both my well-heeled colleagues in the Fourth and Fifth Estate, as well as the guys and gals who passionately collect the Grand Seiko's more affordable cousins.
Courtesy of Seiko
This is one is limited to 3,000 pieces.

And here are the pertinents -

Caliber Number
Automatic with manual winding capacity
+15 to -10 seconds per day
Power Reserve
Approx. 45 hours
26 jewels
Date display
Stop seconds hand function

Stainless steel (super hard coating)
Screw Down Case
11.4 ㎜
38.1 ㎜
44.7 ㎜ 
Water Resistance:
5 bar
Box shaped sapphire crystal
Crystal Coating
Anti-reflective coating on inner surface

Crocodile leather

Wednesday, January 20, 2021

The Brigadier Flyback Chronograph

From Patria -

Courtesy of Patria
This is, admittedly, a quick pop of news and I hope to have something longer and more detailed for you shortly. Ray Grenon has once again found a really cool brand and is bringing it to the US. I have to admit, that I had not heard much about Patria before, so I went to the one man in Switzerland who knows pretty much everything about everything as it pertains to watches, and he informed me that it was a very, very historic brand with fresh life breathed into it. 
Courtesy of Patria
Ray Grenon has a sharp eye for cool things, and it seems fitting that he is the one who brought this over to the US.

As I said, just a quick dip, but hope to be reporting back with much more shortly!