Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Belville 1892

So before you say it, yes the Kickstarter Rule is still in place.  I will not write about a watch pre-Kickstarter or mid-Kickstarter.  UNLESS...

I've had a chance to see it, touch it, and wear it in real life.  And in this case, I had the opportunity to have an advance look (and wearing) of two of the Kickstarter pieces.

Courtesy of Belville
Of the two, this one was my favorite.  This is one of the two Royal Hill variations with hours, minutes, seconds and date.  Under the hood is Miyota's 821A automatic.  The case measures 40 mm in diameter, made of 316L stainless steel with a gold PVD finish.

The dial is a deep blue and the sunray finish.  This is elegant, legible and timeless.  And yes, I want one, and I suspect many people out there want one as well.  

The Kickstarter starts later today, but if you want to dig a little deeper, and you are "Facebook fluent", you can dig in for more information here -

https://www.facebook.com/belville1892/

As near as I can tell, the goal of Belville is to offer a well made, beautiful watch at a great price.  The Kickstarter prices will be even better, but even at the proposed retail price, it is a well priced watch for people who want something a bit special, but perhaps don't have $1,000. 

So the Kickstarter will go live today, there will be a few other choices, but for me, this one is my favorite.

 

Sunday, November 11, 2018

It's Growing On Me

Now I see A LOT of watches, and this past BaselWorld I got my first look at some of the Ming watches.  As a reminder, Ming is a collaboration among six watch enthusiasts, one of whom was kind enough to let me in on the story, and see the product up close and personal.

Courtesy of Ming
The thing is, the Ming collection are at once recognizable without being "knowable", and I realize that is a bit of a contradiction in terms.  What I mean is that in a short span of time, Ming has been able to develop a design grammar that is clear, distinct, and not derivative.  Without massive, obnoxious branding, PR noise, or logos screaming at you, you instantly recognize the Ming.  And that is something that should be celebrated! 

Courtesy of Ming

So at the risk of sounding sentimental, or just that old, cranky fart who waxes on about substance over style...

This is special.  This is the Ming 17.03 GMT with burgundy dial.

And although I know that a black dial is more practical, I am pretty dippy over the burgundy.  

One last point regarding the GMT function.  This is actually a pleasantly subtle, yet practical display.  I like it, and I want one.  So there you have it.

Should you be so inclined, this time machine is very, very reasonably priced at 1,300 CHF.  And it is available direct from Ming.

Here are the pertinents -
  • Functions: hours, minutes, and additional 24h timezone on inner ring
  • Case, dial & hands:
    • 38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, grade 2 titanium case with solid caseback, all brushed
    • 43.9mm lug to lug measurement
    • Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides
    • Rigid case without spacer rings
    • 100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling
    • Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial 
    • Patterned burgundy dial
    • Hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1
    • Dial ring printed with Super-LumiNova C1
  • Straps
    • 1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching
    • 1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching
    • 20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting
    • Will fit 160-210mm (6.1”-8.3”) wrist circumference
    • Signed pin buckle in brushed grade 2 titanium
  • Movement:
    • Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade
    • 42-hour power reserve
    • 28,800 bph (4Hz)
    • 25 jewels
    • Hacking function
    • Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
  • Watch with a strap weighs 49g
  • 1-year warranty against defects
  • Made in Switzerland
  • Delivery package includes two nubuck straps with buckles fitted (dark chocolate/ anthracite), a travel pouch by Thirtyfour Bespoke of Kuala Lumpur, and a screwdriver for bracelet adjustment


 

The Yachtingraf Croisiere (Heritage)

From Yema -


Courtesy of Yema
We continue on with some of the new vintage inspired horological goodness being offered by the newly energized Yema, this is the next up.  It is singularly cool, and yes, you want this!

This is, in the big Yema picture, a member of Yachtingraf collection.  The majority of the collection being far more affordable quartz pieces.  This one is a bit special.

Courtesy of Yema
Limited to 1948 pieces total, this chronograph is also a regatta start timer function at 3 o'clock.   But beyond that?  This thing just looks so DOPE!

Here are the pertinents -

CASE


DIMENSIONS

Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 15.35 mm
Lug: 19 mm

316L stainless steel

BEZEL
316L steel bidirectional with black insert graduated in 

120 divisions
 

CROWN
Crown with double seal "O" ring

CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal (2,00 mm thick)

WATER RESISTANCE

10 BAR / 100 m


MOVEMENT

 
CALIBER

Valjoux 7753 - ETA Swiss Manufacture

MOVEMENT
Automatic
60 seconds chronograph

FUNCTIONS

3 counters
Regatta start timer (countdown)
60 seconds counter
12/24 hour counter

POWER RESERVE

44 hours

DIAL

Black 

3 o'clock and 6 o'clock white sub-dials 
9 o'clock black sub-dial

MARKERS

Super-Luminova C3
 

STRAP
Made in France by a Bisontine manufacture, 

Perforated vegetable tanned leather strap


BAPE and Bell & Ross

Mixed emotions about this one, not going to lie.  This is a collaboration between Bell & Ross and Japanese street wear brand BAPE.  A collection of 2 limited editions.




Courtesy of Bell & Ross
The THE BR03-92 25TH ANNIVERSARY is offered with both a black rubber strap (below) and a Bape grey camo® calfskin strap (above).

Courtesy of Bell & Ross

It is limited to 25 pieces total.  Here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case: 42 mm in diameter. Matt black ceramic.
Dial: matte black. Hands, numerals and indices coated in Superluminova®C3.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Straps: black rubber with APE® logo and Bape grey camo® calfskin
Buckle: pin buckle. Black PVD.


The other model in this release is the THE BR03-92 GREEN CAMO -
Courtesy of Bell & Ross
Limited to 100 pieces, this one comes just with the rubber strap, but a camouflage dial.

Here are the pertinents -

Technical specifications
Movement: calibre BR-CAL.302. Automatic mechanical.
Functions: hours, minutes, seconds and date.
Case: 42 mm in diameter. Matt black ceramic.
Dial: Bape green camo®. Hands, numerals and indices coated in white Superluminova®.
Crystal: sapphire with anti-reflective coating.
Water-resistance: 100 metres.
Straps: black rubber with APE® logo and ultra-resilient black synthetic fabric.
Buckle: pin buckle. Black PVD.

Friday, November 9, 2018

The Superman Heritage

From Yema -
Courtesy of Yema
Yes, Yema!  In a total shift to a concept that I personally REALLY like, Yema is now offering a so-called Heritage collection.  Very few SKUs, very beautiful, desirable watches.  This is a particularly nifty one, the Superman Heritage.  Now to be clear, Yema is also offering some other versions of the Superman that are a bit less expensive (more to come on that), but this one is really special.

Courtesy of Yema
You will note a slightly aged look to the lume.  That is a touch that I really, really like.  So much about a watch and whether you like it or not is visceral.  And this one was a visceral sucker punch that I did not see coming.

Now this one has been out for awhile, so clearly Tempus Fugit is at the end of this particular conga line -

Shamelessly borrowed from the world-wide infoweb
This is a faithful reproduction, right down to the legendary Yema bezel lock -
Courtesy of Yema
This is THE SHIT THAT KILLED ELVIS!

A solid case back, stainless steel bracelet, this is the business.

Priced very fairly at $949 US with standard mineral crystal, $1,099 with a sapphire one.

Here are the pertinents, straight from the source -

CASE

DIMENSIONS

Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 14 mm
Lug: 19 mm
 

CASE
316L stainless steel
 

BEZEL
316L steel unidirectional with black insert graduated in 120 divisions

Bezel with lock mechanism at 3 o'clock

CROWN

Screw-down crown
 

CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal with light magnifying lens effect for better dial readability

2.60 mm thickness
 

WATER RESISTANCE
30 BAR / 990 Feet / 300 m

MOVEMENT

CALIBER

ETA 2824-2 Standard 
Self winding with ball bearings rotor
25 Rubies
28 800 A/h

MOVEMENT 

Automatic

FUNCTIONS

Hours, minutes, seconds

POWER RESERVE

38 hours
 

DATE
Date at 3 o'clock

DIAL
Vintage black dial
Minute/Seconds track consisting of 60 white marks
 

MARKERS
Round hour markers
Triangular marker at 12 o'clock (luminescent zero mark)
Super-LumiNova

BRACELET

FINISHING
Light-weighting fine steel with brushed effect

CLASP

Diver's extension folding clasp with minted Yema vintage logo 
316L stainless steel