Sunday, November 18, 2018

The New Glamour Double Date from Tudor

Some new Tudor models have dropped, and apart from the naming convention (I just don't get the collection name of "Glamour", but maybe that's just me), I do think they have come up with something pretty cool.
Courtesy of Tudor
 It is available in either steel and gold (above and below) -

Courtesy of Tudor

And stainless steel  -

Courtesy of Tudor
Such as this one (above) which is my personal favorite in this new collection.  It is a wonderfully understated piece, offering a watch that will be desirable for more than just one Instagram cycle.  

The case measures 42 mm in diameter, and is of stainless steel.  The movement is Calibre MT5641 which is a manufacture movement, with the COSC blessing.  It is a bidirectional (rotor), automatic (self-winding) mechanical movement, with an advertised power reserve of 70 hours.  Available in three different dial colors, with our without "bling" (diamond indices), with a bracelet or strap, and in either steel & gold, or steel.

Now the challenge was, and will continue to be, how to break out of the "Tudor as Tough Guy" watch idea that has been the unfortunate byproduct of the popularity of the Black Bay divers.  Yes they are nice, clearly they are popular, but they have planted a (false) seed in the minds of bloggers, influencers and journalists (both small and mighty), that Tudor is only about dive watches.  The Advisor, the Ranger, and others offer quite a bit more especially in terms of value for money.  The challenge that retailers face is that all too often, the demand is for the dive watches, and the other pieces become a bit of a "heavy lift" for the retail outlets.  But I have faith that Tudor might be on the right course!  Let us hope, because we waited a LONG time to get Tudor here, I personally want to see it grow and grow strong.

Thursday, November 15, 2018

About Passion

Yesterday I had the truly great pleasure of sharing some tacos and talking about watches, design, and, well, life with Ian Schon of Schon Horology.  Lunch tip from your old pal Henki - if you find yourself within hailing distance of Boston University/Boston College, go check out Lonestar Taco Bar in Allston, MA.  It is well worth it!


Nobody Hates Tacos!
When you think about, talk about, and inevitably write about watches, pens and fashion on the daily, things start to get a bit bland.  And in an effort at total transparency, I had not heard of Mr. Schon before a few weeks ago.  Or, that is to say, I had, but I had forgotten.  During the summer months I tagged along with a fairly talented group of cyclists on Saturday morning rides, and the inevitable "what do you do for work" conversation came up.  And one of the ride organizers said that she knew a guy who had designed watches and was now making pens.  I was intrigued, and filed it away.  It wasn't until a few weeks ago that John Keil (Watch Gauge) told me about these amazing pens that he had seen in New York at a show recently -

Courtesy of Schon DSGN
Well, a little digging and I found that the pen maker and the watch "designer" were one in the same!

Courtesy of Schon
After living my own version of "M.T.A." Just call me "Charlie"!  But in this instance I am happy to say that although waylaid beyond belief, I finally made it to Allston and got to see the show (luckily, I had the extra nickel).

And the watches are something truly special -

As special as the watches and pens are (and they are), if I am honest, I found the designer / manufacturer to be one of the most quietly passionate people I have met in this industry in quite some time.  His enthusiasm is infectious!   So we will be going deeper shortly, but this is your wake-up call!  Stay tuned!

Tuesday, November 13, 2018

Belville 1892

So before you say it, yes the Kickstarter Rule is still in place.  I will not write about a watch pre-Kickstarter or mid-Kickstarter.  UNLESS...

I've had a chance to see it, touch it, and wear it in real life.  And in this case, I had the opportunity to have an advance look (and wearing) of two of the Kickstarter pieces.

Courtesy of Belville
Of the two, this one was my favorite.  This is one of the two Royal Hill variations with hours, minutes, seconds and date.  Under the hood is Miyota's 821A automatic.  The case measures 40 mm in diameter, made of 316L stainless steel with a gold PVD finish.

The dial is a deep blue and the sunray finish.  This is elegant, legible and timeless.  And yes, I want one, and I suspect many people out there want one as well.  

The Kickstarter starts later today, but if you want to dig a little deeper, and you are "Facebook fluent", you can dig in for more information here -

https://www.facebook.com/belville1892/

As near as I can tell, the goal of Belville is to offer a well made, beautiful watch at a great price.  The Kickstarter prices will be even better, but even at the proposed retail price, it is a well priced watch for people who want something a bit special, but perhaps don't have $1,000. 

So the Kickstarter will go live today, there will be a few other choices, but for me, this one is my favorite.

 

Sunday, November 11, 2018

It's Growing On Me

Now I see A LOT of watches, and this past BaselWorld I got my first look at some of the Ming watches.  As a reminder, Ming is a collaboration among six watch enthusiasts, one of whom was kind enough to let me in on the story, and see the product up close and personal.

Courtesy of Ming
The thing is, the Ming collection are at once recognizable without being "knowable", and I realize that is a bit of a contradiction in terms.  What I mean is that in a short span of time, Ming has been able to develop a design grammar that is clear, distinct, and not derivative.  Without massive, obnoxious branding, PR noise, or logos screaming at you, you instantly recognize the Ming.  And that is something that should be celebrated! 

Courtesy of Ming

So at the risk of sounding sentimental, or just that old, cranky fart who waxes on about substance over style...

This is special.  This is the Ming 17.03 GMT with burgundy dial.

And although I know that a black dial is more practical, I am pretty dippy over the burgundy.  

One last point regarding the GMT function.  This is actually a pleasantly subtle, yet practical display.  I like it, and I want one.  So there you have it.

Should you be so inclined, this time machine is very, very reasonably priced at 1,300 CHF.  And it is available direct from Ming.

Here are the pertinents -
  • Functions: hours, minutes, and additional 24h timezone on inner ring
  • Case, dial & hands:
    • 38mm diameter, 9.8mm thickness, grade 2 titanium case with solid caseback, all brushed
    • 43.9mm lug to lug measurement
    • Sapphire crystal with antireflective coating on both sides
    • Rigid case without spacer rings
    • 100m water resistance with triple crown gaskets and nitrogen filling
    • Composite, multi-layer, three-part sapphire dial 
    • Patterned burgundy dial
    • Hands coated with Super-LumiNova C1
    • Dial ring printed with Super-LumiNova C1
  • Straps
    • 1x dark chocolate nubuck with white stitching
    • 1x anthracite nubuck with white stitching
    • 20x18mm, quick release with curved fitting
    • Will fit 160-210mm (6.1”-8.3”) wrist circumference
    • Signed pin buckle in brushed grade 2 titanium
  • Movement:
    • Automatic mechanical movement Sellita SW330-1 top grade
    • 42-hour power reserve
    • 28,800 bph (4Hz)
    • 25 jewels
    • Hacking function
    • Movement adjusted to five positions with a 250-hour test program
  • Watch with a strap weighs 49g
  • 1-year warranty against defects
  • Made in Switzerland
  • Delivery package includes two nubuck straps with buckles fitted (dark chocolate/ anthracite), a travel pouch by Thirtyfour Bespoke of Kuala Lumpur, and a screwdriver for bracelet adjustment


 

The Yachtingraf Croisiere (Heritage)

From Yema -


Courtesy of Yema
We continue on with some of the new vintage inspired horological goodness being offered by the newly energized Yema, this is the next up.  It is singularly cool, and yes, you want this!

This is, in the big Yema picture, a member of Yachtingraf collection.  The majority of the collection being far more affordable quartz pieces.  This one is a bit special.

Courtesy of Yema
Limited to 1948 pieces total, this chronograph is also a regatta start timer function at 3 o'clock.   But beyond that?  This thing just looks so DOPE!

Here are the pertinents -

CASE


DIMENSIONS

Diameter : 39 mm
Thickness: 15.35 mm
Lug: 19 mm

316L stainless steel

BEZEL
316L steel bidirectional with black insert graduated in 

120 divisions
 

CROWN
Crown with double seal "O" ring

CRYSTAL
Domed mineral or sapphire crystal (2,00 mm thick)

WATER RESISTANCE

10 BAR / 100 m


MOVEMENT

 
CALIBER

Valjoux 7753 - ETA Swiss Manufacture

MOVEMENT
Automatic
60 seconds chronograph

FUNCTIONS

3 counters
Regatta start timer (countdown)
60 seconds counter
12/24 hour counter

POWER RESERVE

44 hours

DIAL

Black 

3 o'clock and 6 o'clock white sub-dials 
9 o'clock black sub-dial

MARKERS

Super-Luminova C3
 

STRAP
Made in France by a Bisontine manufacture, 

Perforated vegetable tanned leather strap